Which CPVC do you have?
Read the print on the pipe. CPVC marked CTS or ASTM D2846 is copper tube size, the kind used for house water lines: 1/2" is 0.625" across, against 0.840" for 1/2" PVC. CPVC marked Schedule 40 or Schedule 80 is iron pipe size. Charlotte Pipe’s Schedule 80 CPVC has the same outside diameter as its Schedule 80 PVC, and SharkBite’s white-collar PVC fittings take Schedule 40 and 80 CPVC as well as PVC, so a white-collar coupling joins that kind with no glue.
To join them by thread instead, glue a PVC male adapter onto the PVC and screw it into a CPVC x brass transition fitting with a female thread. Charlotte Pipe recommends plastic male into metal female for cold water only.
Can you glue CPVC to PVC?
- Not with PVC cement. Oatey says PVC cements are too aggressive for CPVC and will cause probable failure, and that joints made with the wrong cement should be cut out and finished with approved transition fittings.
- Each pipe has its own cement in the code. The IPC calls for ASTM F493 cement on CPVC (orange with a primer, or yellow one-step where the pipe maker allows it) and, on PVC, ASTM D2564 cement over a purple ASTM F656 primer. Between the two plastics, it asks for approved adapters or transition fittings. Local code decides which rule applies where you live.
Hot water and drains
Keep the PVC to cold water outside the house, such as the service line from the street. Charlotte Pipe rates PVC to 140°F, and the IPC’s table of pipe for water distribution inside the house lists CPVC but not PVC.
In drain lines, the IPC and IRC also call for an approved adapter fitting between two kinds of plastic pipe. The one glued joint those drain sections allow is between ABS and PVC; see ABS to PVC.